Growing up in Utah, Leyden resident Janell Howard frequently helped out on her grandfather’s farm. Today, Howard and her family farm on 10 acres using methods remarkably different from her grandfather’s. Instead of chemically eradicating weeds, insects and other living things, the Howards emphasize composting and retaining water in the land.
For Leverett native Dan Howard, his family’s move to western Massachusetts two years ago from Utah marked a return to his native county. Janell and Dan have been married for 32 years and have seven children, ages 18 to 30. They met after Dan enrolled at Utah State University to study business. Dan works full-time as a data engineer, but his skills come in handy on the farm, as we shall see.
The Howards have cultivated several different gardens throughout the years, including on a suburban fifth-of-an-acre space in Utah. “We tore up the front lawn for growing space,” said Janell. “We had 12 fruit trees and a large garden. People were impressed with the quality and abundance of food we grew, and we shared with neighbors.”
The COVID-19 pandemic resulted in Dan Howard working remotely, and the family put down roots in Leyden, which enabled them to pursue some dreams. “My grandfather only knew conventional, synthetic ways of farming,” said Janell. “When I learned about regenerative ways to improve the land and the importance of healthier, nutrient-dense food, it blew my mind.”
Courtesy of Janell Howard
In Utah, she participated in a permaculture design certification program and was greatly influenced by the work of Elaine Ingham, Ph.D., a soil biology researcher who founded Soil Foodweb Inc. Janell also studied with Zach Weiss, an international water cycle restoration practitioner.
“Microorganisms are the key,” said Janell. “Pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides damage the soil. When people reach for something ending in -cide, it seems to help initially, but it backfires. Treating a symptom makes the problem worse. Cultivating a healthy soil food web leads to healthy orchards and gardens.” Her prime suggestion is mulching: “It’s the easiest thing you can do and achieves multiple goals. Covering the soil prevents compaction caused by rainfall and reduces the heat that can destroy microorganisms.”
Many longtime gardeners have strong opinions about which materials to use for mulching. Some growers opt for straw and assiduously avoid hay because of weed seeds, and they can’t imagine using wood chips to mulch a vegetable garden, fearing nitrogen depletion. But Janell emphasized: “If your soil is truly healthy, it’s fine to use wood chips.” This may require a huge shift on the part of some, but hear Janell out, because her results have been startling.
“There are microorganisms on all living things,” she said. “A process plays out that’s so complex, you could never patent it.” Howard and her family practice a type of thermophilic composting, which manages microbial activity within a temperature range of 130 to 170 degrees over several days. The heat breaks down organic materials rapidly, thereby killing pathogens and weed seeds, and requires a minimum volume and consistent turning to ensure aerobic conditions. Howard emphasized that the organic material breaks down due to microorganisms’ feeding cycles.
The Howards also concoct compost extracts, which involves taking a bit of compost and using a mesh bag and a special nozzle to send water through the compost into a bucket, making microorganisms readily available. “We put that extract on soil and plants, coating them with microorganisms,” said Janell, who explained that the process lessens the amount of time needed to access nutrients. “But you can’t just put the extracts into jugs and sell them,” she continued, “because every garden has different microorganisms, and you need to incorporate ones that are local to your site. This gives you better soil, faster.”
Courtesy of Janell Howard
She admits that the process is labor intensive: “It involves dumping buckets and using a pitchfork to turn a pile. Dan and I can put a pile together in about 45 minutes, and each subsequent pile-turning takes about half an hour. I love the thought of people composting together in a community setting.” As a consultant, she said, “I’m always happy to consider facilitating community events for groups or neighbors, to help them build a good pile.”
It doesn’t hurt that Dan’s skills include using a microscope to assess soil quality. “If [a garden or farm] isn’t thriving, if there’s disease, it has to do with soil microorganisms,” said Janell. “You can test for pH or which elements are contained in the soil, but the presence of beneficial organisms is actually a much better indicator.”
Janell’s growing methods include “putting horse manure on the ground, piling woodchips on top, and growing crops right there. I encourage people to use materials they have on hand, especially if they’re free.” While volunteering at a Mexican orphanage, Janell found that wood chips were unavailable, but locals used clumps of specific grasses for mulch. “It depends on your environment,” she said.
Janell calls manure “an awesome mulch, but don’t till it or work it into the ground. Manure with bedding is really good, but if it’s super fresh, you’ll get flies, so cover it with something. Leaves are excellent. You can use shredded paper, straw or even hay if it’s covered so the weed seeds don’t germinate. And if you cover manure with wood chips or something else, it will cover the seeds contained in the manure so they don’t have the opportunity to germinate.”
As long as it’s organic material, it’s fair game, even black-and-white newspapers, since it’s now unlawful to use harmful inks. “I never use landscape fabric, though,” said Janell. “It doesn’t benefit microorganisms, because it’s a barrier to air and light.” Readers wishing to contact Janell Howard for tips about composting can reach her at how2grolandscapes@gmail.com.
Eveline MacDougall is the author of “Fiery Hope” and can be reached at eveline@amandlachorus.org.