In the early 20th century, rural New England women made pie frequently for their families. It was part of women’s work.
At one point in the history of my small town of Hawley, pie briefly became men’s work.
While doing research for Hawley’s bicentennial in 1992, I unearthed the following nugget of information in an essay written by Mattie Carter White around 1920 titled “A Sketch of the [Hawley] Ladies Aid”:
“At one time there was a contest for the women sawing wood. The men had a pie baking contest. Mr. Clarence Gould got the prize for making the best pie.”
I published White’s words in a short book. Almost immediately, men in Hawley began to ask about reintroducing the pie contest. Fortunately, none of the women expressed interest in sawing wood.
Last fall I finally acquiesced, and the Hawley Gentlemen’s Pie and Tart Extravaganza was born. We held the pie contest over Columbus Day weekend — probably not the best choice of dates since Columbus Day is packed with events in our area. We received only 12 entries.
What we lacked in quantity we more than made up for in quality. The pies, the competitive spirit of the contestants and the day as a whole proved memorable and rewarding.
Merchants donated cash and prizes, a crowd showed up to witness the day, and the event raised significant money for the Sons & Daughters of Hawley.
The day was delicious from start to finish.
After a sumptuous lunch, the ceremonies began with a pie parade. The contestants proudly carried their pies around the Hawley Meeting House, leaning over to show their creations off to an enthusiastic audience.
Most of the contestants were men. Women were allowed to enter as well, although they were disqualified from winning first place.
Marilyn Pryor of South Hadley took the name “Merlin” for the day, and our 90-year-old musical director, Alice Parker, wore a bowtie and fedora to masquerade as Alfred Parker.
Townspeople then re-enacted the original pie contest won by Clarence Gould. We don’t actually know precisely when it took place or what kind of pie netted him his victory. We do know that he was born in 1860 and married a woman named Nettie King in 1887.
I made up a frothy skit in which Clarence fell in love with Nettie’s lovely singing voice but was dismayed when he learned that his sweetheart wasn’t a pie baker. Her lack of pastry skill almost doomed their courtship.
Luckily, Nettie’s wise aunt decided to host a men’s pie-baking contest, reasoning that if Clarence learned to make pie himself, he wouldn’t require his wife to do it for him. Pie and romance prevailed.
The audience loved watching the play and singing songs of home and countryside like “Over the River” and “Home Sweet Home,” not to mention a new composition known as “The Pickle Song.”
The all-female panel of judges — food historian Darra Goldstein, culinarian Kathleen Wall from Plimoth Plantation and cookbook editor Doris Cooper — then explained their rationale for selecting the top pies.
Will Cosby of Hawley took first place with his Ginger Apple Moose Pie. Winning seems to have gone to his head. He now calls himself the Pie King and expects to be addressed as “sire.” His fellow contestants all went away happy, thanks to the many prizes and the convivial spirit of the day.
I am already being asked when this event will recur. I am exhausted from all the planning and don’t plan to organize another one until 2021.
For those of you looking for pies to warm your winter, the Sons & Daughters of Hawley and the contestants are happy to share a couple of the top recipes from the fall. Women as well as men are welcome to make them.
from Will Cosby of Hawley
Ingredients:
12 small or 8 large apples, peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon ginger
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1-1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 cup white sugar (or less to taste)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon apple-cider syrup (optional)
1 double all-butter 2-crust pie recipe (mix 1 teaspoon of powdered ginger in with the dry ingredients), chilled overnight in cling wrap
2 ounces (1/4 cup) butter softened
1 beaten egg combined 3 with tablespoons cold water for basting the top toward the end of baking.
Instructions:
Preheat the oven 425 degrees.
Mix the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Add the apples and the lemon juice and cider syrup (if using). Mix well.
Roll out both crusts. Place the bottom crust in a heavy, deep-pie dish, iron skillet or stoneware preferred. Mound the coated apples in the center of pie dish, and dot with butter. Lay the top crust over the fruit, crimping the edges to seal and cutting away excess crust.
Make a decorative moose head with antlers from the crust trimmings, and place it on top. Cut six 3/4-inch vents on the crust to allow steam to escape.
Bake the pie for 20 minutes; then reduce the heat to 375 and bake it for 20 minutes more. Place foil over the edges if the crust becomes too brown. Baste the top of the pie with the egg wash, and continue baking for 10 more minutes. Let cool completely before serving. Serves 6 to 8.
from Merlin Pryor of South Hadley
Ingredients:
pastry for a double-crust, 9-inch pie
1/4 cup cornstarch
1/4 cup water
1-1/2 cups boiling water
1-1/2 cups sugar plus 1 tablespoon later
2 tablespoons grated lemon rind
1 tablespoon butter
2 eggs, slightly beaten
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon milk
Instructions:
Line a 9-inch pie pan with the bottom crust. Set it aside.
Combine the cornstarch and the 1/4 cup water in a medium sauce pan. Add the boiling water. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture comes to a boil. Boil for 1 minute (until thickened). Stir in the 1-1/2 cups sugar, the lemon rind, and the butter. Allow the mixture to cool.
When it is cool, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Stir in the eggs and the lemon juice. Pour the filling into the prepared pie shell. Cut slits in the top crust to allow steam to escape; then adjust the crust over the filling. Flute to make a stand-up edge.
Brush the top of the pie with the milk, and sprinkle on the remaining sugar. Bake the pie for 30 minutes; then raise the temperature to 425 degrees and bake for 10 minutes or until it is golden.
Serves 6 to 8.
Tinky Weisblat of Hawley is the author
of “The Pudding Hollow Cookbook”
and “Pulling Taffy.” For more
information about Tinky, visit her
website, www.TinkyCooks.com.