“My mother was an assassin,” says Rob Chirico of Greenfield at the beginning of his delightful new book, “Not My Mother’s Kitchen.” Lest readers think his parent was a professional hit woman, he quickly adds, “in the kitchen, that is.”
Chirico grew up in the era of the classic television situation comedy, in which mothers routinely dished up elegant, nourishing meals in dresses and high heels. He is quick to point out that not every mother at that time (or any time) had a talent for cooking.
His Italian heritage might lead the average reader to expect that he grew up awash in homemade spaghetti sauce and pesto. In reality, he explains, his mother chose to put highly processed convenience foods, mostly canned or frozen, on the family table. The family clearly enjoyed plenty of love but very little flavor.
Despite this paucity of taste and color — or perhaps because of it — Chirico grew up to work in restaurants, represent cookbook authors and write about food. Little by little, he discovered the glory of his culinary heritage.
“Not My Mother’s Kitchen” is at heart an Italian-American cookbook, and it’s the sort of cookbook I adore. Chirico sets every recipe in context, both in terms of its overall history and its personal history for him. If his recipes differ from the classic versions of a dish, he explains how and why.
He also identifies any exotic ingredients he uses, telling the reader why they matter in the dish in question and sometimes suggesting substitutes. (He also frankly indicates where and when he believes that no substitute for a special ingredient exists.)
At the end of the book, Chirico includes several helpful appendices. He shares a brief annotated bibliography of his favorite Italian cookbooks. He details the cooking tools he finds essential and convenient. And he provides a number of online sources where the would-be Italian cook can find specialty ingredients.
I found much to savor in this book. It includes numerous recipes I intend to try. I read it on a day when I was participating in a nutritional cleanse, which was not the ideal reading environment because Chirico’s culinary offerings are definitely mouth-watering.
The book’s descriptions of food and family are easy to follow and fun to read. Rob Chirico’s mother may not have been much of a cook, but his parents clearly had no trouble filling his table and his life with my favorite ingredient: humor.
Rob Chirico will sign copies of “Not My Mother’s Table” today from 12 to 1:30 p.m. at the World Eye Bookshop in Greenfield.
Tinky Weisblat is the author of “The Pudding Hollow Cookbook” and “Pulling Taffy.” Visit her website, www.TinkyCooks.com.