Sitting at a picnic table at the Boathouse Galley in Charlemont is a serene and happy experience, even before the generous portions of food arrive.
Perched on the bank of the Deerfield River on River Road, just across the bridge from Charlemont’s business district, this outdoor eatery enjoys one of the most peaceful settings in Western Massachusetts.
The expanded food cart opened at the end of July 2020. It is the brainchild of property owner Jerry Pratt and his nephew and business partner, Bryce Ribken.
Pratt purchased the land in 1986 and began adapting its main building, formerly the grain-storage unit of the Charlemont train station, into a home. Over the years the building took on additions — and additional character.
Pratt built a large stone wall around the house using materials from his other business, Ashfield Stone. The wall forms a boat shape, and the building became known as the Boat House.
In 2019, Pratt recalled in an interview, “this cart came up (for sale). … We didn’t have the money to buy it.”
He and Ribken purchased it anyway.
For years, they knew, people wishing to raft or swim in the Deerfield had been using the property to gain access to the river.
“It just made sense to come up with something that people could enjoy,” explained Pratt. They planned a menu of the foods they personally loved: a little seafood, a little beef, a little chicken.
They decided to serve sandwiches, plus veggie burgers for those who eschew meat. Ice cream served in cones, cups, or sundaes has recently been added to the menu.
They came up with the name “the Boathouse Galley” and started fixing up the food cart. They faced one major obstacle, however. Neither of the two had any experience in the food business beyond dishwashing.
And then, Pratt recalled, “a miracle walked in the door.”
A Charlemont neighbor stopped by one day and asked, “Is this going to be a food cart? Do you have a cook?”
Before they could even answer, according to Pratt, the man informed them, “I’ll be here tomorrow. No, the day after.”
“He took us under his wing,” smiled Pratt.
This professional cook was named Manny. With him on board, the galley was in business.
Manny has moved on, but Pratt and Ribken have hired a young, energetic team of cooks. Scott Converse, Lyza Mann, Jaymee Conway and Hannah Kelleher all live within a mile of the galley.
The staff is augmented by the galley’s official hostess. Pratt’s dog Tara is a gentle creature who greets customers as they arrive and makes sure no one has to worry about disposing of leftovers.
Pratt noted, “Her food dish is ….” He went on to describe pretty much the entire menu. “She can even do coleslaw, but not too much.”
Pratt and Ribken take their turns at the food cart as well.
“When we first opened,” remembered Ribken, “I did not have a lot of experience cooking. I’ve learned a ton. I now can cook everything on the menu. I can’t believe how easy it really is.”
Ribken’s personal favorite dish is the recipe the two shared with readers of the Recorder below, the fish and chips. The pair and their cooks use a light coating that lets the fish (in this case, cod) dominate in terms of flavor and texture.
“You can taste the fish,” Pratt said. “It’s not all batter.”
Their customer base is mostly locals.
“Between the two of us, we know an age group from well into their 80s down to babies,” Pratt said. “We are hilltown boys and proud of it.”
The Boathouse Galley is open Wednesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. It will remain open into the fall, probably until about mid-October. For more information, one can visit the galley’s website (theboathousegalley.com) or Facebook page (facebook.com/deerfieldriverventures).
Pratt and Ribken are pleased with the way their business has grown since its mid-pandemic opening — and the way in which it has allowed friends to see and eat with each other outdoors during a time when indoor dining has been restricted.
“Good portions, good food, good service, good price. That’s our motto,” said Pratt.
Neutral oil as needed for frying
1 cup batter mix (the Boathouse uses Drum Rock Fis-Chic Wonder Batter and Breader)
One 10- to 12-ounce piece cod
In a deep-fat fryer, preheat the oil to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Dip the fish in the dry mix to coat it; then gently pop it into the hot oil. The fish is done when it becomes golden brown and its layers just start to come apart. (At the Boathouse Galley, this takes about 2 minutes.)
Serve with French fries and homemade coleslaw and tartar sauce. Serves one person generously.
1 cup mayonnaise
⅓ cup relish
Lemon juice to taste (start with 1 tablespoon)
Mix the ingredients well. Keep refrigerated until ready to serve. Makes a little over 1 cup.
Tinky Weisblat is the award-winning author of “The Pudding Hollow Cookbook,” “Pulling Taffy,” and “Love, Laughter, and Rhubarb.” Visit her website, TinkyCooks.com.