The cool new ‘underground’ spot in town: Le Peacock in Shelburne Falls delivers on colorful décor, people, food and cocktails

Daytime manager Matt Boyd, chef and owner Michaelangelo Wescott, and nighttime manager/sommelier Eric Trabucco behind the bar of Le Peacock at 10 Bridge Street in Shelburne Falls.

Daytime manager Matt Boyd, chef and owner Michaelangelo Wescott, and nighttime manager/sommelier Eric Trabucco behind the bar of Le Peacock at 10 Bridge Street in Shelburne Falls. Staff photo/Paul Franz

The Peacock Burger and fries at Le Peacock restaurant in Shelburne Falls.

The Peacock Burger and fries at Le Peacock restaurant in Shelburne Falls. Staff photo/Paul Franz

Le Peacock nighttime manager and sommelier Eric Trabucco makes a Gin Blossom.

Le Peacock nighttime manager and sommelier Eric Trabucco makes a Gin Blossom. Staff Photo/Paul Franz

The Gin Blossom drink at Le Peacock in Shelburne Falls.

The Gin Blossom drink at Le Peacock in Shelburne Falls. Staff Photo/Paul Franz

The dinning room at Le Peacock in Shelburne Falls.

The dinning room at Le Peacock in Shelburne Falls. Staff Photo/Paul Franz

By TINKY WEISBLAT

For the Recorder

Published: 05-14-2024 12:23 PM

For weeks, friends have been telling me how much they love Le Peacock in Shelburne Falls. I finally got there on a recent afternoon … and the place lived up to the hype.

Le Peacock is located beneath 10 Bridge Street in Shelburne Falls. The restaurant has gone through many incarnations. The current one may be the most fun. In addition to tables, the eatery/bar offers a lounging area with comfy chairs. Its vintage décor is eclectic and colorful.

The restaurant is the creation of Michaelangelo Wescott, the chef and owner of the Gypsy Apple Bistro up the street. Wescott claims that he was talked into leasing the underground space, but he clearly loves it.

The name “Le Peacock,” he said, came to him in a dream. It sums up the appeal of the space — splashy and showy yet charming. Wescott decorated the space with art and furniture he has been amassing for some time. “He had the restaurant in his head,” daytime manager Matt Boyd said of Wescott.

Photographer Paul Franz and I chatted with Boyd and Wescott as well as with the cook, Mario Gonzalez, and nighttime manager/sommelier Eric Trabucco. The last was resplendent in a blazer with a peacock pin. We also sampled Le Peacock Burger, along with a flavorful cocktail called the Gin Blossom.

Le Peacock prides itself on its bar. “We specialize in alcohol you’ve never heard of,” laughed Boyd as Trabucco mixed the cocktail, which gained flavor and color from pea flower mixed into the gin.

It was just the sort of beverage for which one would come to a bar like this one. It was pretty and delicious and featured ingredients most of us don’t have in our homes.

I asked whether Michaelangelo Wescott was responsible for the menu. I was told that although he had created the initial menu he had turned over the creation and preparation of Le Peacock’s food to Gonzalez. Boyd informed me that Wescott retained veto power; his employer shook his head at that.

In the kitchen, Gonzalez told me, he combines his Mexican background with a love of fine dining. He seemed to enjoy preparing the burger, a simple classic dish. “I try to do nothing to complicate the food,” he explained, adding that he believes in letting light flavors stand out.

His burger technique is one I had never tried, although I gather it has become popular in recent years. He started the Peacock Burger by searing it on both sides on a griddle, then transferred it to the oven to finish cooking.

The resulting burger was perfectly cooked, crispy on the outside but still quite pink on the inside. It was finished with melted American cheese, then placed on a toasted bun with shredded lettuce and Peacock Sauce (a riff on Thousand Island dressing — or maybe Russian; I have trouble telling the two apart).

In short, as the folks at Le Peacock admit, it’s a riff on the signature burger from McDonald’s. It is exponentially tastier, however, thanks to the high quality of the ingredients and cooking.

Anne Cheatham and Ann Gibson were lingering over their lunch with friends when Paul and I visited. They clearly concurred with our high opinion of the burger.

“It’s the best burger in the Valley,” Cheatham opined. “It’s the best burger I’ve ever eaten in my life,” added Gibson.

The burger is served on a vintage plate. The accompanying fries come in an old-fashioned saucer. The overall effect is appealing and unique.

The menu also offers small plates as well as other classic items like Fish and Chips. The ceviche follows Mario Gonzalez’s family recipe.

Matt Boyd told me that he believes the dark, underground space attracts diners and cocktail enthusiasts alike. In the winter, it radiates coziness. In the summer, it’s cool. And the bathroom is … well, you’ll just have to visit the place and look at this adorable tiny room.

Le Peacock is open for lunch, dinner and cocktails Tuesdays through Sundays. On Tuesday evenings, it offers a free draft beer with each burger order.

The restaurant doesn’t take reservations so you may have to wait a little while for a table, but the atmosphere makes the wait worthwhile.

Le Peacock Burger

The sauce recipe below isn’t precisely what Gonzalez served with his burgers; that formula is proprietary. It gives you the general idea, however.

Ingredients:

for the burger:

a little canola oil for searing

7-1/2 ounces 80/20 ground beef, shaped into a patty

salt and pepper to taste

2 slices American cheese

1 hamburger bun

shredded lettuce to taste

a generous spoonful of Peacock sauce

for the Peacock sauce:

3/4 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup catsup

1/4 cup chopped dill pickle (no skin, no seeds)

1 teaspoon mustard

3 dashes Worcestershire sauce

Instructions:

To make the burger, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Splash a little oil on a griddle or frying pan. When it is warm, add the hamburger patty. Sear it on one side, and then the other. Salt and pepper both sides to taste.

Place the patty on a small, ovenproof dish, and pop into the oven. Bake it for about 4 minutes in a convection oven or 5 minutes in a regular oven to achieve a medium-rare burger.

For the last couple of minutes, place the American cheese on top of the burger so it will melt. Meanwhile, toast the bun on the pan you used for frying the burger.

Take the patty out of the oven, place it on top of the bottom half of the bun, and top it with sauce and lettuce. Serve with fries and catsup. Serves 1.

To make the sauce, combine all ingredients. Refrigerate any leftovers. You should have about a cup of sauce in all.

Le Peacock Gin Blossom

Ingredients:

2 ounces pea-flower infused gin (you may use regular gin, but it will be less pretty)

.75 ounces Bouchant (cognac-based) orange liqueur

.75 ounces freshly squeezed lime juice

2 dashes orange-blossom water

1 dehydrated lime slice

Instructions:

In a cocktail shaker, combine the gin, the liqueur, the lime juice, and the orange-blossom water. Shake over ice.

Place an extra-large ice cube in a 10-ounce rocks glass. Strain the liquid into the glass. Top with the lime slice. Serves 1.

Tinky Weisblat is an award-winning cookbook author and singer known as the Diva of Deliciousness. Visit her website, TinkyCooks.com.