Greenfield Winter Farmers Market a trailblazer
Published: 11-01-2024 6:02 AM
Modified: 11-01-2024 5:28 PM |
Fans of the Greenfield Farmers Market who are feeling sad that the three-season treasure has wrapped up this year’s outdoor version can take heart.
Next Saturday, Nov. 9, marks the first of eight occasional winter markets, located indoors at the Greenfield Public Library (GPL), giving folks opportunities between now and early April to avail themselves of local produce and an array of crafts, value-added products, live music, and camaraderie.
As noted in a previous column, Greenfield’s outdoor farmers market began 50 years ago; today’s column reveals a lesser known distinction, as our county seat is believed to be the site of the commonwealth’s first-ever winter market. It began — as did many wonderful things — in the brilliant mind of the late Juanita Nelson (1923-2015), a farmer, writer and right livelihood proponent who lived in Deerfield for over four decades. She was admired locally, nationally, and around the world for her candor, fortitude, and many types of genius. With her life partner, Wally Nelson (1909-2002), Juanita helped found Greenfield’s outdoor market.
Years later, Juanita hatched the idea of starting a winter market while presiding over another event she helped to launch: the Free Harvest Supper.
“Juanita first mentioned the possibility of a winter market while at the 2006 Free Harvest Supper,” said Sunderland resident Aaron Falbel, a close friend and associate of the Nelsons. Always looking for ways to support and celebrate local farmers, Juanita had suggested a Free Harvest Supper, open to all and featuring regional bounty, inspired by the annual end-of-season party enjoyed by farmers market vendors. Yet her reasoning extended beyond socializing: she was oft-quoted as saying, “We need to figure out how to eat locally as much as possible. Why depend on food trucked in from hundreds or thousands of miles away, just because it’s winter? People survived in New England before the use of fossil fuels.”
The first winter farmers market took place on Feb. 2, 2008, in the social hall of the Second Congregational Church, the historic building next to the town common. True to form, Juanita gathered co-conspirators and pitched the idea of a week-long celebration to introduce the idea to locals. This led to a series of events called Week of Winter Fare.
“We had potlucks, canning and food preservation workshops, recipe swaps, and other programs,” said Falbel. “The Saturday indoor market was the kickoff event.”
The planning team met for a year in advance. In addition to Juanita Nelson and Aaron Falbel, the committee was made up of a who’s who of local food heroes: Ferdene Chin-Yee, Margaret Christie, Therese Fitzsimmons, Mary McClintock, Clare Morenon, and Devon Whitney-Deal.
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“I believe Mike McCusker came on board a little later,” said Falbel.
Group members included farmers and those with connections to farm networks like CISA (Community Involved in Sustaining Agriculture), constituting a powerhouse of planning and facilitation.
When the winter market outgrew its original spot, it moved to Greenfield High School and later to Four Corners School. In each location, its popularity equaled, and at times seemed to surpass, the outdoor version. In addition to buying and selling produce, visitors to early iterations could bring surplus home-grown produce to barter with other gardeners at a dedicated booth. The winter markets have always had a spirit of sharing and celebration, according to longtime participants.
“I’m going into my 11th year at the winter market,” said Nicholas D’Alessandro, proprietor of Hearthstone Artisan Bakery. The Hearthstone booth is a popular destination year-round, thanks to D’Alessandro’s magic touch with sourdough breads and his trademark chocolate chip cookies. It’s not unusual to overhear customers exclaim they look forward to Saturdays in order to stock up on the mysteriously perfect cookies.
D’Alessandro is a fixture at both the indoor and outdoor Greenfield markets and sits on the organization’s steering committee; he also sells at the Northampton Farmers Market, as well as regional fairs and festivals. Yet about a decade ago, he was a total newbie to vending at farmers markets, and claims a “sentimental attachment to the winter market, because that was my very first one.”
He added, “When I started my business, I applied for a spot (at Greenfield’s winter market), with no idea how it would go. We sold out in 45 minutes, and it’s been a great experience ever since.”
D’Alessandro’s son, Sebastian, was a toddler in the early days; the strapping teen now helps his dad in many locations.
Rachel Haas, of Hadley’s Meadowfed Lamb, plans to be at every winter market this season, mostly selling chicken and eggs, but with other products, too.
“There couldn’t be a better place to do a winter farmers market than a beautiful, sun-filled library,” said Haas.
Colrain resident Marilyn Lively of Sunrise Farms Maple says her family’s operation has participated in every winter market since its inception, in addition to being part of the outdoor market since its early days.
“Even though winter is a very busy time for us, given that it’s sugaring season, we’re always at the winter markets,” she said. “We wouldn’t miss it!”
Library patrons and librarians love it, too. “We’re very excited about the second annual Winter Market at the library,” said Pamela McBride, Information Services Assistant at the GPL. “It’s a great fit for people of all ages. Come on by, pick up a book, do some art projects (upstairs), and visit the fabulous market on the first floor!”
The Winter Farmers Market runs from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Saturdays Nov. 9, Nov. 23, Dec. 7, Dec. 21, Jan. 11, Feb. 8, March 8, and April 5. For more information, visit greenfieldfarmersmarket.com.
Eveline MacDougall is the author of “Fiery Hope” and an artist, musician and mom. She can be reached at eveline@amandlachorus.org.