Adapting together: Local support, federal funding help farms respond to climate change

Leila Rezvan, co-owner of Keshtyar Seeds at Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield, picks Shirazi bean seeds on a recent Friday afternoon. The hand-scale vegetable and seed farm, like other farms throughout the Pioneer Valley, has adopted and continues to refine ways to prepare for climate change and all its repercussions.

Leila Rezvan, co-owner of Keshtyar Seeds at Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield, picks Shirazi bean seeds on a recent Friday afternoon. The hand-scale vegetable and seed farm, like other farms throughout the Pioneer Valley, has adopted and continues to refine ways to prepare for climate change and all its repercussions. STAFF PHOTO/CAROL LOLLIS

Leila Rezvan, left, co-owner of Keshtyar Seeds at Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield, John Collector and Brooke Bullock, owners of Stonebridge Farm, are shown with sheep and rotational grazing fences.

Leila Rezvan, left, co-owner of Keshtyar Seeds at Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield, John Collector and Brooke Bullock, owners of Stonebridge Farm, are shown with sheep and rotational grazing fences. STAFF PHOTO/CAROL LOLLIS

A ram in a movable fence at Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield. One of the climate change-related strategies the farm employs is called rotational grazing, which involves moving groups of animals through a field one small section at a time. The animals eat everything down to a certain point before moving on, giving that area time to rejuvenate with the help of their manure.

A ram in a movable fence at Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield. One of the climate change-related strategies the farm employs is called rotational grazing, which involves moving groups of animals through a field one small section at a time. The animals eat everything down to a certain point before moving on, giving that area time to rejuvenate with the help of their manure. STAFF PHOTO/CAROL LOLLIS

Shirazi beans and seeds picked by Leila Rezvan, co-owner Keshtyar Seeds located at Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield.

Shirazi beans and seeds picked by Leila Rezvan, co-owner Keshtyar Seeds located at Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield. STAFF PHOTO/CAROL LOLLIS

Leila Rezvan, co-owner of Keshtyar Seeds at Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield, holds seeds from Persian Cress, which have not yet been separated from the chaff.

Leila Rezvan, co-owner of Keshtyar Seeds at Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield, holds seeds from Persian Cress, which have not yet been separated from the chaff. STAFF PHOTO/CAROL LOLLIS

A trap covers a portion of Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield where a “high tunnel” — an adaptation strategy some farms use to protect plants from extreme weather — will be installed. The premise behind the strategy is to grow plants under cover, whether that’s small “caterpillar tunnels” over single rows of plants or larger “high tunnels” covering a whole area.

A trap covers a portion of Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield where a “high tunnel” — an adaptation strategy some farms use to protect plants from extreme weather — will be installed. The premise behind the strategy is to grow plants under cover, whether that’s small “caterpillar tunnels” over single rows of plants or larger “high tunnels” covering a whole area. STAFF PHOTO/CAROL LOLLIS

Brooke Bullock and John Collector, owners of Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield, with cows kept in rotational grazing fences.

Brooke Bullock and John Collector, owners of Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield, with cows kept in rotational grazing fences.

By JACOB NELSON

For the Recorder

Published: 09-10-2024 4:22 PM

CHESTERFIELD — Three people. Two businesses. One piece of farmland. Countless ways that climate change is making farming harder.

And yet, plenty of hope, because these farmers have a plan. With support from peers, nonprofits and even Uncle Sam, they’re building resilience to keep people fed, whatever happens next.

The three farmers are Brooke Bullock, her partner John Collector and Leila Rezvani. They met at a teaching farm in New Orleans, where Bullock was the executive director, Rezvani a lead farmer and Collector a volunteer. As they got closer, they talked about starting a commercial farm together. When Bullock and Collector were able to buy Stonebridge Farm in Chesterfield in 2022, they invited Rezvani and Rezvani’s partner to join them on the land. Soon, collaboration blossomed.

For various reasons, it made sense to create two separate businesses. Under the existing Stonebridge Farm name, Bullock and Collector today raise cattle for beef, sheep for lamb, chickens for eggs and meat, and rabbits, along with several kinds of fruit. Still getting established, they sell eggs and a few other things at the Chesterfield General Store, Oliver’s Farm Stand in Goshen and the Hilltown Mobile Market.

The other farm on the land is Keshtyar Seed, a hand-scale vegetable and seed farm run by Rezvani and Bullock. They grow a wide variety of produce sold in many of the same markets, as well as rare and threatened plants grown specifically for seed.

“These seed plants are mainly from the SWANA region (Southwest Asia and North Africa), where my father is from,” Rezvani explained. “We sell to two small seed companies — Experimental Farm Network and Truelove Seeds — and a few other people.”

As these young farms get started, a big part of the farmers’ focus is on preparing for climate change and all its repercussions. Among them, the toll of increasingly extreme and erratic weather has already left an impression.

“I was responsible for a farm in a very vulnerable place in New Orleans,” Bullock recalled. “Hurricanes came, everyone I loved evacuated and I had to stay for our animals.”

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Rezvani is equally pensive, adding from her experience in the South, the Hudson Valley and now Massachusetts, “It seems like we have to be prepared for anything at this point.”

In truth, they can’t prepare for every possibility. Instead, these farmers are focusing on practices that offer general resilience to many different impacts of climate change.

For Stonebridge, that starts with improving the health of their pasture soil and the mix of plant species that grow from it. “To do that we’re using rotational grazing,” said Bullock. “Basically, using livestock as a tool to grow strong, healthy soil and grasses.”

Rotational grazing involves moving groups of animals through a field one small section at a time. The animals eat everything down to a certain point before moving on, giving that area time to rejuvenate with the help of their manure. This mimics how herds of grazing animals naturally behave. Done well, rotational grazing decreases soil compaction and encourages more fertile soils, plant growth and species diversity. All are good for livestock, pollinators and overall ecosystem health.

Soil with more organic matter also drains after heavy rains and traps moisture longer, keeping pastures productive when it’s hot and dry. All of this is helpful as climate change spawns more heat waves and more intense and spottier rainstorms.

Keshtyar Seed’s operation also benefits from improving soil health, but their biggest concern is protecting their plants from extreme weather.

“If you get rain at the wrong time, you can ruin an entire seed crop by getting it wet,” said Rezvani. “Wind protection is important, too — we get really strong winds here in the hills.”

Their main adaptation strategy is growing more plants under cover, whether that’s small “caterpillar tunnels” over single rows of plants or larger “high tunnels” covering a whole area.

For both farms, “Diversifying is also so important,” Bullock added. “We might have a year where the sheep don’t do well, but we still have cows. If the blueberries fail, we still have pears, and our income doesn’t crash.”

Whether starting a new farm or retrofitting an old one, figuring out how to adapt to climate change is both costly and risky. New equipment, materials and technical assistance all cost money. Trying new farming strategies takes time and effort, too, and success isn’t guaranteed. Yet climate change is affecting farms around the globe, and to grow enough food to stay in business and feed everyone, many will have to adapt.

Given the stakes, most people would say these risks and costs are worth it. The question is, who takes on the risk and cost? Often, it’s farmers, but they as a group have little time or money to spare. Most would love some help.

Some nonprofits and mission-driven companies are standing with farmers, encouraging climate-smart farming practices with funding to defray costs and technical advice to guide the way. For example, Stonebridge Farm received funding from American Farmland Trust to buy fencing for rotational grazing. Meanwhile, Keshtyar Seed received one grant from Sky High Farm, a nonprofit supporting historically marginalized farmers, to build a future high tunnel, and another from Community Involved in Sustaining Agriculture (CISA) to pay longtime farmers at Crabapple Farm, also in Chesterfield, to help them learn the quirks of hilltown farming.

“Coming from Louisiana where this kind of support wasn’t accessible, it felt like a fairytale,” Bullock said. “But now that I’m here starting a production farm, it feels absolutely critical.”

Critical, but maybe not enough. At least not for all farms.

So far, small grants are helping keep Stonebridge and Keshtyar above water, but the farmers started with a few uncommon advantages. They were already educated about climate change and motivated to design their farm around it, and all three have off-farm income allowing for more financial flexibility. For farmers not in these positions, a handful of grants may not be enough to enable a similar transition, leaving them more vulnerable to climate change’s impacts.

“To encourage farmers to shift how they farm and basically do climate resilience research, there needs to be a higher payback,” Bullock said. “Farmers are risking their livelihoods to do this.”

Many farmers and supporters say that farmers provide a public service by feeding people and innovating to keep our food supply stable, and that service is worthy of more public financial support. Recently, lawmakers acknowledged this in a big way.

As directed by the 2022 Inflation Reduction Act, the U.S. Department of Agriculture has invested more than $3.1 billion in the Partnerships for Climate-Smart Commodities. Much of that money will go directly to U.S. farmers, paying them to transition acreage into pre-identified climate-smart farming practices. Farmers will also be paid to collect data on how these practices influence carbon sequestration, soil health and other indicators of climate resilience.

Locally, CISA is part of a team of organizations helping farms apply for funding. Stonebridge Farm is among the first local farms to do so, and CISA will work with dozens more in the coming years.

As climate change brings more extreme and unpredictable weather, new pests and diseases, and even makes some areas too risky to farm, farmers are continuing to find ways to deliver. Policies that shift risk and expenses off farmers’ backs may help. So may steady patronage and advocacy from the community.

As Congress renews the Farm Bill this year, many local farmers and advocates are lobbying in favor of programs like the Partnership for Climate-Smart Commodities. Closer to home, many are taking part in a local Climate Change and Farming Week from Sept. 15 to Sept. 22 organized by CISA. Public events range from farm tours to cooking demos and film screenings, all aiming to spark collaboration toward climate solutions within the local food system. Learn more at buylocalfood.org/climateweek.

“If we value farms growing food that’s good for people and good for our world, we need to invest in them,” Bullock said. “I really hope policy makers keep putting money toward local farms, not taking it away.”

Jacob Nelson is communications coordinator for CISA.